Everything is Nzuri Sana, Hakuna Matata
Imagine a little bookshop behind the liveliness of an African vegetable and fruit market. Stacks of books and papers, pencils, stamps and a Zanzibari man with obvious Arabic features behind the counter. He is shouting into the telephone he’s holding into his right hand. It’s like he’s giving orders, repeating himself over and over again, not waiting for a response on the other side of the line. After the last flow of words he ends with “Faisal Kumar, Zanzibar News”. What he was talking about was the ship that had sunken into the sea between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam. Six people had been reported as being officially dead, many others sick and exhausted after having spent hours and hours holding onto floating soap packages while waiting to be rescued.
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On the day this sad event took place, Catherine, Dominique andI had just left Stonetown. In the dalla dalla, between crying toddlers, mango-sellersand screaming chicken we traveled to our second beach destination on the southof Zanzibar:Kizimkaze. A small town with only one long street with straw huts placed onboth sides. A very different experience from beach-sand-sun Kendwa. During ourstay in this little village mostly known for its dolphin tours, we became closewith the local people. Being the only tourists during the low-season, villagerswould come by throughout the day, for a little talk, to play a game of bao(local game with little stones) or to bring fresh fruits from their gardens. Webecame friends with the fishermen and made drawings with the children on adaily base. Of course we had to accompany one of the beachboys on his motorboatto search for dolphins and jump into the water with out flippers and goggles assoon as we had come across a group of them. I’ve never seen a dolphin from soclose, let alone swam with them. I could almost touch them when they wereplaying with each other, disappearing into the deep darkness of the oceanshortly afterwards. We left Kizimkaze after 3 days, saying goodbye thetalkative but charming Chiriundi (non-stop speaking in rapid Kiswahili, as ifwe understood a word of what he was saying…), the warm and caring Suleman (ourhost and citrus-fruit provider) and the intelligent and ambitious Omari (whohad an American girlfriend and is setting up his own bead and breakfast).
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In the next village Jambiani we first stayed in a tiny hutwith noisy gecko’s keeping us awake in the night and later moved to a big housewith own kitchen, bathroom and lounge. Both places were arranged by Mr. Cool,an innocent rastaman we met on the beach in Kizimkaze. I sincerely believe heis a good person always willing to help others and make the world a happy placeto live in, but it’s also sad to see him more or less wasting his life,spending his days smoking marihuana and drinking Konyagi. Every day of the weekis the same, and it will be in the future… Jambiani is bigger than Kizimkazi,but not as interesting and inspiring. In combination with our limited budgetand no access to an ATM we went back to Stonetown after 3 days to spend ourlast days in a hotel near the harbor.
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Stonetown remains my favorite place in Zanzibar. It’s a safe andexciting place, and once you get used to the way people sell their goods orservices to mzungu’s (foreigners) it’s easy to enjoy everything this city hasto offer. We have obtained some good African friends during the last days ofour stay, a couple of guys from Arusha who ran their own shop in one of thelittle Zanzibari streets have taken us to local parties with REAL music, wherepeople REALLY dance. The African way. We spend one of out best evenings at a reggae partyin an old building in the open air, some people playing pool, others enjoying adrink on one of the chairs on the terrace, and again others dancing in front ofthe dj, moving on the beat of bongoflava. <!– /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";}@page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;}div.Section1 {page:Section1;}–>It felt good to be among those Zanzibari youngsters whoobviously enjoyed themselves without caring about the problems they might faceduring the day. And it let us forget the life-story of a Nigerian refugee whohad come to sit next to Catherine and told her his entire life-story; about howhis family had been murdered, how he had fled the country and moved to Zanzibarwhere he is still discriminated against and harassed by the police, living alife without friends or family. Only his faith in God is keeping himalive, nothing more or less.
